Just back from dog walking along the beach at Seignosse on a sunny day, where a very tiny shin-high swell was rolling in – just about rideable on a longboard or SUP – and I was rather surprised to see one dude emerge from the water in full steamer, boots, gloves and hood.

I know it’s unseasonably mild at the moment but even so the air temp is in the low 20s and the water 16C so it seems a rather excessive use of neoprene.

Made me realise that there are some advantages to having spent most of my life surfing cold water though, cos while the dude in the full bib and tucker is floundering around with all that extra weight of neoprene as he tackles the waves I can feel comfortable in a mere shortie.

And that’s exactly what I plan to wear later this aft when the sun bursts forth and a new swell arrives to be enjoyed in the company of fellow St. David’s refugees Charlie Sime and Harry Ledwith.

Tidy like…


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